This site has been developed to share my experiences as a Distinguished Fulbright Teacher in Argentina. The views shared here do not represent those of the U.S. Department of State, the U.S. Fulbright Commission, the Academy for Educational Development (A.E.D.), nor those of la Pontificia Universidad Católica Argentina.

viernes, 6 de abril de 2012

MATZO IN SAN TELMO

Happy Passover! Chag Sameach! Happy Easter! Buona Pasqua! Qué pases buena pascua!
Uncanny resemblance to the Republic of Argentina
I am thrilled to spend tonight's first seder here in Providence with the family of my dear friend and colleague Edna. Tomorrow night...back to Western Mass for a second seder/Easter Sunday double-header. Labo-Wohl Family, remember those years of shuttling between Kutcher's and Plainview, NY, in the same weekend? Matzo one night, Italian-style Easter bread basket the next. Hyphenated ethnic identities can be complicated, ya know? And yummy.

Last year was a bit simpler. I celebrated Pesach only in the home of an Australian gentile friend surrounded by an Argentine, vegetarian U.S. ex-pats, and some very familiar faces from home. We might have been in Buenos Aires, but the Haggadah was the same (outdated) text translation from my childhood. Too funny!

Fun Fact: Buenos Aires has the 10th largest Jewish population in the world after Tel Aviv, New York, Haifa, Jerusalem, South Florida (ok, not a city), Paris, Philadelphia, and Chicago, in that order. Clearly, it's the largest in Latin America. Several porteños tried to tell me it was third largest Jewish city after New York and Paris, but wikipedia.org begs to differ. (Classic example of the self-aggrandization so common in B.A. I write that with total love and a smile.)
Plus, up to 60% of Argentina's population is of Italian descent. No wonder I felt so at home here!

Demián and Leslie handling some bread of affliction

Matzo ball soup!

Alex came all the way from New Jersey to prepare a seder for her brother Sam and his friends. Aw! Thanks, Frommers.

How Hayley enchanted Marty. He did all the dishes that night.

Love these folks
18 April 2011

miércoles, 4 de abril de 2012

UNTITLED (24 May 2011)

It's been a long day filled with education gems; tomorrow promises to be as well. I leave you before I rest with this post with few words and no title. What do you make of this series taken in the B.A. barrio of Caballito? 
Feel free to comment publicly.
                                                                                                        

 

martes, 3 de abril de 2012

THE POWER OF UN BESO

It's amazing how powerful the smallest customs can be.

Upon return to the United States, I instantly missed the Argentine kiss-greeting. Everyone kisses everyone on the cheek there: friends, strangers, colleagues, lovers. Even men kiss other men in the street. It is verbalized in writing and speaking when proximity prevents the real thing from happening: "See you tomorrow! ¡Un beso!"

Some foreigners find all that kissing to be too intimate and a bit jarring, but I love it. Making physical connection with so many of the people you encounter throughout the day is a tiny, perfect reminder of our shared humanity.

Good night.  
¡Un beso!

lunes, 2 de abril de 2012

BECAUSE IT'S NICE TO PAINT

According to the proprietors of Graffiti Mundo Tour in Buenos Aires, most street artists in the capital paint "porque es lindo pintar." It sure is nice to paint, isn't it?



Latin America has a long and fascinating history of muralism. However, in contrast to many of its regional neighbors, Argentina's public paintings are a more recent phenomenon--less historical and less politically revolutionary. Graffiti arrived in 1990s, created by mostly middle class artists emulating "cool" U.S. work born out of the hip-hop movement. The severe economic crisis of 2001 inspired a great deal of different work in Buenos Aires - mostly new political commentary and expression of rage. Quickly, artist collectives also formed to combat the malaise and frustration. One of the first street art groups intentionally aimed to animate the public mood and make poeple smile by painting enormous, silly cartoons on the walls in primary colors.

Since then, the work is often created by established artists who also show in galleries or are professional graphic designers. There is way less taboo in Argentina than in U.S. for commercials artists to engage in graffiti. (However, not unlike graffiti in the U.S., it's a bit of a boys' club in B.A. While there are few women on the scene at the moment, there is one who is highly respected and goes by the moniker Pum Pum.)



All wall-painting is illegal except for private property, and of all the problems in this city, graffiti is not considered the highest priority for law enforcement. Police are only allowed to respond to complaints, which means they don't chase artists randomly. So, it is essentially legal making it not exactly graffiti afterall.... When artists do not have run from the law, the art changes. It allows them to take more time and paint during the daytime with exterior latex paint (way less aerosol and wheat pasting, way less nighttime work). The general porteño attitude towards street art is far more tolerant. There are no planning committee regs to wrestle, few permits to secure, if any. Some private property owners even ask painters to cover the walls of their homes. A tagger is less likely to spoil a completed mural, whereas a clean empty wall is fair game.

In 2000 I attempted to complete a public mural project with a group of teenagers in Cambridge, MA. The red tape we encountered became as much a lesson to us as the process of collectively designing the image who had hoped to share with the community. Now, had we been in Buenos Aires...hmm....

Overall, one of my favorite aspects of work on the walls is the dialectical nature of it: painters interact with each other's work in "collaboration"- sometimes knowingly, sometimes unsolicited. Many images are ever-changing. And, the higher up you can paint, the better. Low-quality taggers and political propagandists don't usually have ladders to mess with your work!



I learned much more and took detailed notes, so if you are interested in the stories of specific pieces or artists you see in the slideshow, let me know. Most of my information comes from the Graffiti Mundo guides. If you ever find yourself in Buenos Aires, I highly recommend this tour company with tours in English and Spanish. No flight reserved? There is a good deal of info on the website as well.

domingo, 1 de abril de 2012

UN AÑO DESPUÉS: ANNIVERSARY UPDATE

An iconic shot of the Caldén tree captured in the province of La Pampa
 (May 2011)

One year and one week ago, I landed for the first time at Ezeiza Airport in Buenos Aires, weepy for the community I was leaving behind in Providence but tremendously excited for the adventure that lay ahead in the Argentine Republic.

Lately and routinely, I return to Argentina in my dreams. My nocturnal escapades are certainly more cost effective but not nearly as satisfying as the actual months I spent there exploring, observing, questioning, building bridges.

The dreams, coupled with encouraging comments from several of you readers, have reminded me that I never closed this blog and that there is more to share. What happened? As you might recall, the entire project had a delayed beginning. Plus, my work (and play) as a Fulbright fellow snowballed in the final weeks of my stay, making it more difficult to keep up with postings. I had every intention of writing much more last August after I had returned to the U.S., but...but...excuses, excuses! Hey, maybe leaving the blog open and incomplete was an unconscious means of sustaining the experience.

That said, my goal this week is to post a daily, brief snapshot-memory from last year sprinkled with fresh thoughts from today. Let's see how this goes: Take 2!

Me, at Paul Cuffee School in enthusiastic storytelling mode presenting
a slideshow to the school community on what I learned in Argentina (December 2011)
                                            

viernes, 1 de julio de 2011

PLAN B

That wily Chilean Volcán Puyehue is still acting up...the enormous ash cloud it vomited over the Andes that has devastated southern towns in Argentina and stymied travelers for weeks is interrupting air travel again!  My good friend Chiara is here for a visit, and tonight our flight to the north province of Misiones was cancelled.  Both the domestic and international airports of Buenos Aires are closed.  Thank goodness Chiara was able to arrive safely and without delay yesterday from the U.K.!  After adjusting our tickets at the airport so that we can hopefully travel tomorrow, we jumped into a taxi cab to drop our bags at home and to devise tonight's Plan B. The driver was taking his own Plan B-alternate route to my neighborhood because the highway was cut-off by protesters (again).

Oh...Argentina.

What's Plan B? you might be wondering?  To go downtown and watch on TV the national team play Bolivia in its first-round match of the Copa América, of course.  Messi and Tevez are both starting.  

Happy weekend, everyone! 

lunes, 27 de junio de 2011

NOT JUST A GAME

I know I promised you a post on street art, and it will go up in good time.  Due to recent events here, however, I just can't help but share a few thoughts on sports first.  Overall, Argentines like sports, lots of sports. Polo is supposedly popular in the interior, though I have no evidence for that. Tennis fans can find high-level competition--after all, Juan Martín del Potro, is one of world's Top 10 pro tennis players and hails from the province of Buenos Aires. (Jared Donaldson, a teen tennis prodigy from Rhode Island and new friend of mine, trains and competes here on his way to the big time--watch for him in the future.)  NBA basketball also as a certain following; earlier in the season I enjoyed catching Celtics games on occasion.

But let's be honest...there is no sport that captures the hearts and minds of Argentines like fútbol

The United States is inundated with complete sports fanatics dedicated to so many different games. Some live and die for baseball, others for hockey, some for American football, while basketball reigns supremely for still others, just to name a few of the biggies. Even soccer has an ever-growing following (side note: Argentine players are known to contract with MLS once they hit their 30s so they can keep getting paid to play). All the same, we have nothing like the rest of the world has soccer. 

Volumes have already been written on this subject by sports journalists, sociologists, historians, and economists.  I've collected a few of my own short anecdotes to further illustrate the ways in which fútbol is not just a game:

  • Last night, River Plate, one of the historically best teams in the Asociación de Fútbol Argentino (AFA) lost its place in the A Division for the first time in 110 years.  Once a team drops to the B Division, they pretty much stay in that less competitive and less glamorous division until they find themselves in the B league's championship game at the end of the season--no easy feat. This is such a serious matter that River fans rioted in the streets near the stadium in one of Buenos Aires's more affluent neighborhoods last night. Fires. Fights. Upwards of 89 people were injured and 50 arrested, according to a major newspaper.  I kid you not.
On the flipside, fans (or hinchas) of the rival Boca Juniors club partied gleefully outside of their home stadium. (Given that Boca has a soulful and spirited history, plays at a stadium located close to me, and that I've met a couple of the players, I've been rooting for them.)  Last night some Boca fans sang this funny little chant to the River Plate Chicken, loosely translated:
             Antes que te vayas al descenso,   Before you go down
             Vamos a quemar el gallinero.       We will burn the hen house. 
             Mi vida no es igual                       My life won't be the same
             si te vas a la "B".                           if you go to the "B" Division 
             Como te voy a olvidar...               How I will miss you... 
             Gallina no vuelvas más!               Chicken, don't ever come back!

    Keep in mind that this was not a championship game, yet it was still somehow more shocking, even sublime. Imagine if the Yankees lost to, say, Baltimore's farm team, after having a few rocky seasons and were demoted entirely to Minor League play.  No more team in MLB.  That's basically what happened tonight. I repeat: destructive riots and ridiculous revelry.  P.S.  I didn't receive it, but I'm told that the"warden" from the U.S. Embassy in Argentina sent a warning e-mail to some ex-pats about this game two days in advance of the match. 
    • Since 2009 the Argentine government has broadcasted AFA soccer matches on public television under the name "Fútbol para Todos" because, obviously, watching soccer is everyone's right. 
    • During a pre-game asado bbq, my neighbor lost his apartment keys. He complained all night that he didn’t have them.  His father had an extra set, but he lives an hour away and wouldn’t bring them.  My neighbor would have had to go for the keys himself, but how could he do that?  Boca was playing.  No, it was far more important to watch Boca than to be able to get into his apartment he explained to me.
    • GOOOOOOOL!…I've gotten to know a radio journalist who is "the Voice of Boca". He can announce a goal as good as any commentator on Univisión. Hilarious guy. (Northampton friends: he is kind of the Argentine-soccer version of Adam Hargraves.)
    • May 1, International Labor Day, fell on a Sunday this year. It really messed with the hardcore fútbol fans. Quote: [sighing sadly] “Domingo sin fútbol no es domingo” (Sunday without soccer just isn't Sunday)
    • A couple of months ago, the San Lorenzo club fans protested the movement of their stadium by blocking traffic (an extremely common and frequent collective action here). I asked around: is this protesting really going to do anything?  Absolutely not.  The deal was done. They just felt... nostalgic...snff snff. 
    • Martín Palermo, the star forward for Boca, was honored during the last game of the season because it marked the last game of his career. Afterwards as a retirement gift, the Club gave him the goal. I repeat, they gave him the whole goal.  Net, posts and everything.  What do you do with that?  Put it in your backyard? Over your bed? 
    • The sport remains dominated by men, and while there ain't no Title IX in Argentina, more and more girls and women are playing these days. 
    • Lionel Messi, the namesake of my cousin's son, is the all-time leading scorer for the European Champions League and considered the world's best soccer play on the pitch today. Argentines call him el crack – slang for "the best". He's sick, he's the bomb...he's from Argentina!  And I hear that he shows up for dinner near my office in Buenos Aires once in a while.  
    • When my brother came to visit in April, he happened to watch a few 6-year-olds kicking around in a plaza.  A fairly accomplished U.S. college player himself, Mike was blown away by the ball control of the little guys. He simply shook his head and stated plainly, "The U.S. is never going to win the World Cup."
    Sure, it's easy to argue that the passion for the game--and the money, the near-saintly status of star players, etc.--are completely over the top and out of control. As outrageous as it is, and while there are many Argentines who are very critical of this obsession, it's not likely to change anytime soon. And frankly, dangerous riots aside, it's great fun.

    La Copa América, the month-long championship tournament for South American soccer, begins this weekend. Argentina is hosting. We'll see what drama ensues!